Route description for Balkans "is open"

Easter Monday – The journey can begin

The RV is ready to go. We quickly reach Spielfeld on the motorway and, as we travel to Karlovac , we get acquainted with the different motorway toll systems. In Slovenia, we had already completed this process online at home. In Croatia , a ticket must be purchased at a ticket booth. The button is at a height that is difficult for the driver to reach, requiring a high level of acrobatic maneuverability.

The journey that day was stress-free and without complications. With the music muted on the radio commemorating the passing of Pope Francis, we relaxedly reached our destination at a campsite in Plitvice National Park.

The Plitvice Lakes and the “Treasure in the Silver Lake”

The roaring waterfalls cascading over steep cliffs, the lakes and wild, romantic mountains provided the ideal backdrop for Karl May's film "Treasure of Silver Lake."

Back then, it was the two superheroes Winnetou and Old Shatterhand who lit up the landscape of the Plitvice Lakes on the big screen. Today, it is the colorful crowds who wind their way in orderly paths like a caterpillar over stairs and walkways towards the great waterfall in order to take the most cinematic selfie possible on their mobile phones for their followers.

The days of galloping horses are long gone. Today, it's dogs on leashes, trotting behind their owners with their heads hanging low because they're not allowed to swim in these protected waters.

Across the Dinaric Mountains to Zaton

After driving through a pastel green forest we reach the karst massif of the Dinaric Mountains .

We wind our way up the mountain via switchbacks. To our right, rugged cliffs, and to our left, a view into the far distance of a prairie.

In my imagination, Winnetou, the charismatic Apache chief, appears on his horse, stands majestically on one of the huge rocks and then says his final goodbye with his typical greeting, pointing with his outstretched arm in the direction we are traveling.

At the foot of the limestone massif, the barren meadow soils are constantly tormented by stones that scatter themselves uncontrollably. Sheep, the only animals that find this environment livable, blend in perfectly with the structure of this patchwork quilt.

We soon leave the mountainous region behind us and slowly approach the coast. After the strenuous drive, we're looking forward to meeting our friends in Zaton , who have invited us for a cozy afternoon with coffee and cake.

Journey from Zaton to Dubrovnik

From Zaton we first head back through several villages at a snail's pace until we finally reach the motorway exit heading south via Split and many kilometres later to Dubrovnik .

We sit in our driver and passenger seats in a good mood, with the weather being decent, listening to the music provided by the local radio stations, which is sometimes interrupted by the news in Croatian, the meaning of which we cannot grasp at all.

Driving on the highway is always boring. But this time, there's something different. Halfway through, we encounter heavy rain with small hailstones. We slow down and dive right through the front. Soon, the sky clears, and the sun winks cheekily at us again. Fittingly, the radio announces: "I can see clearly now the rain is gone..."

Time for a break! We find inviting rest areas along the route that almost force us to stop. They offer food and coffee, as well as magnificent views of the sea and the bays that extend into the land.

Despite the long journey, we reach Dubrovnik with the feeling of having enjoyed the coast to the fullest.

The ultimate end to the day is an evening stroll to the beach near our campsite. The sun bids farewell for the day as it slowly sinks into the sea.

Across the border to Montenegro

In the middle of a deep sleep, we are jolted awake by a violent thunderstorm. Loud roars of thunder crashing in rapid succession into the silent night, accompanied by lightning flashes overhead, shaking the earth and accompanied by torrents of rain pouring from the sky like waterfalls. Sleep is out of the question, but we lie safely wrapped up in our blankets and anxiously await the end of the spectacle.

The day begins cloudy, the rain is over and we start the last section in Croatia to the border with Montenegro .

Due to a kilometer-long traffic jam, the one-and-a-half-hour journey according to the route planner turns into four. Border controls are meticulously enforced on both sides, but cause no problems.

The first thing we have to do right after the border is to adjust our cell phones for use in Montenegro, the second is to fill up the tank, and the third is to find the campsite in Bijela .

We completed all of the tasks quickly and after arriving we still had enough time to stroll along the beach promenade and let ourselves be enchanted by the intrusively sweet scent of the jasmine bushes.

The adventure can begin

We take the panoramic road and leave the Bay of Kotor , heading into the mountains of Montenegro. We have plenty of time for sightseeing today. Like pearls on a string, photogenic motifs appear, and we're happy to stop to capture them as best as possible.

A parking lot, a market stall – we approach the products on display with curiosity. The farmer, a shrewd salesman, offers us a variety of cheeses to taste and manages to get us to pack not only honey but also other precious specialties. He's done a good deal with us, and we've lost a few euros.

In Niksic we leave the main route for a detour to the Ostrog Monastery, a monastery built into the rock.

And that's where the adventure begins. The access road is narrow, tight, and winding, with bays to swerve from oncoming traffic. This is a real strain on my driver. But somehow we arrive at our destination and not only catch a glimpse of the impressive structure, but also a rewarding view back into the landscape, where the road we've been curving up winds smoothly all the way to the top.

Our destination is Zabljak in Durmitor National Park . We found a few campsites online, but unfortunately, there's no information about whether they're open or not. Following the navigation system, we end up on a narrow, steep gravel road, where we touch the side mirror and realize that none of the campsites are open. We have to keep going.

In Durdevice Tara we are luckier and we are the only RV here and have the entire sanitary area to ourselves.

Uphill, downhill over Montenegro's mountains

A roadblock on our planned route, which would have led parallel to the gorge, forces us to take a detour into the mountains via a side road to the north.

We curve the road uphill a few times, land on a plateau, and then curve downhill again.

In retrospect: "Thank you so much!" We drive through a lovely landscape, its green dress dazzling in the sunlight. Blooming orchards arranged around isolated houses, grazing sheep, occasionally cows, and mountain peaks with small patches of snow in the distance, underscore this ambiance, which could inspire a painter to create a masterpiece.

This region is still untouched by tourism and, if possible, should not be exploited like other hotspots we have already experienced.

Today we check in at Camp Rabrenovic near Mojkovac and experience a quiet, well-kept place that we are happy to recommend.

Enjoyable trip back to the coast

We set off in glorious weather and continued our journey along the panoramic road. After yesterday's experiences, we decided to skip the highway and truly enjoy the scenery one last time.

The entire scenery passing by exudes a calm serenity. The mountains and rocks appear soft and rounded thanks to their vegetation, even as they form steep gorges. This coziness is adorned by the pointed rock bands like the points of a crown.

How wonderful that there are always opportunities for a break along the road. In addition to the brief stops for photography, we enthusiastically take advantage of a coffee break. This ritual, accompanied by gentle ethno-pop music, literally sets my mind in motion.

Some time later, we get hungry for some solid food, so we devour it in a nice restaurant. We share a 40-dag mixed grill – intended for one person – between the two of us. It comes with a mixed salad. We couldn't even manage this portion between the two of us. It was delicious, and we're sure to be full until the next day.

This atmospheric day ends after a walk on the beach with processing the impressions in our heads and sorting the photographed images.

Montenegro - Border - Albania

We drive a few more kilometers along the panoramic road until we reach the border crossing into Albania. We stand in line, show our passports, and are waved through to continue our journey. Thinking we've left Montenegro, we wait for the border guards, who must still allow us to enter Albania. We carefully look for a building that might be a border crossing. There's none in sight, not even a "Welcome to Albania" sign or anything similar. After a while, when we only see Albanian license plates, we realize that we've already entered the country, and that we've already passed through the first checkpoint. We hadn't imagined the border crossing would be so smooth.

Our route takes us through Shkoder , where a massive traffic jam awaits us. Could it have been the police officers who were supposed to be controlling the roundabouts toward Durres who caused the jam? In any case, our destination is Shengjin . We drive into town to raid an ATM and print some lek. Then we head to the campsite, which surprises us with access to a secluded sandy beach.

Excited, we set out to explore. The beach is beautiful, the sound of the waves relaxing, but unfortunately, the debris is not entirely natural. The scenery is also marred by a few ruins that speak of a better time.

A lagoon stretches parallel to the beach behind our campsite, attempting to rectify this image of destruction. Here we find a true paradise, where quality breeding conditions are guaranteed for various bird species.

Departure to Lake Ohrid

A leisurely breakfast outdoors, then our belongings are stowed away in a shock- and break-proof manner and the engine is started. We quickly leave the city of Tirana behind us and reach Elbasan , a winding mountain road that is being diligently improved.

We've been following a valley for a while, where an attractive stream with huge gravel banks appears repeatedly. Thirsty for coffee and a break, we head for a parking lot with a view, where we meet two French women who love to travel and spontaneously invite them for a coffee chat about the beauty of Albania and much more.

We continue on at a relaxed pace until we suddenly come to a stop. What happened? An accident? Everyone in the convoy is wondering. Impatient ones try to break the traffic jam by honking. It doesn't work. Others get out and stretch their legs, which was certainly more sensible.

At some point, the cars started moving, and then the cause became clear. In Librazhd , the road was blocked by protesters (against or for a nearly completed tunnel? – We have to translate the banner first).

A large number of police officers regulate our onward journey and we soon reach the pass, where we catch our first glimpse of Lake Ohrid on the descent.

An exciting, full day in Pogradec draws to a close. We take the opportunity to treat ourselves to a grilled trout in the campsite restaurant.

Across the vegetable garden

We're already familiar with the first part of today's stage. We reach Lushnje via the winding road, dotted with construction sites, and from there we enter a wide, sweeping valley, where the Osum River flows freely, until we reach Berat .

The soil here is very fertile and provides generous support for the arable land and the fruits that grow there, which are offered in an appetising array at the market stalls along the roadside (often in the middle of the roundabout).

We follow this valley for a long time, its slopes lined with olive tree plantations, whose rows draw a graphic pattern in the landscape and dress it with a trendy shade of olive.

As you drive through towns, the pointed spires of the mosques rise into the sky like obelisks. A muezzin regularly calls the faithful to prayer via loudspeakers. I would have loved to hear this chant, but unfortunately, the opportunity never arose. Muslims, Orthodox Christians, and Catholic Christians seem to live side by side in this country in a spirit of tolerance.

Today we give thanks for the blessing that the statue of the venerable Mother Theresa on the pass road to Elbasan has given us for our onward journey.

Nature worth protecting – Photogenic Vjosa

Upon our arrival at the family-run campsite yesterday, we were greeted so warmly and kindly by our campsite manager that it's hard to say goodbye today. It was truly special to be able to park our RV for the night in the well-kept garden, lovingly decorated with flowers. Almost every house we've passed is currently adorned with roses in full bloom. I love this sight and can hardly get enough of it.

On today's route, we leave the mountains dotted with olive trees. On our way to Sarande, we follow the turquoise Vjosa River, which has been allowed to maintain its natural course untouched from its source to its mouth. This is also the reason why this area was declared a national park in 2023.

This landscape is given a special touch by the gorse-covered slopes of the mountains that rise up alongside the river and the road and shine in competition with the sun.

Change of plan

The excited, loud honking of geese at the crack of dawn, when we're normally still sound asleep, interrupts our divine peace. They're likely emissaries of the weather god Zeus, who has sent his wrath across the sea with lightning, thunder, and rain, thus persuading us to take a different route to his homeland, Greece.

Our destination would have been Butrint , where we would have liked to visit the ancient ruins for a cultural experience for a change. In heavy rain, that would have been quite an experience, but we decided against it and chose a different border crossing.

As Zeus decreed, the rain eases during the journey, and we stop to visit the "Blue Eye," the attraction we pass. It's a good thing we can order coffee here after a short hike. The bubbling and gurgling of the emerald-green waters provides the perfect musical accompaniment for this break.

After crossing the border from Albania to Greece , we're delighted at our rapid progress, as we're allowed to speed along part of the way on a highway. We were too quick to celebrate! The thrill of speed soon comes to an end! The final stretch to Kalampaka is another winding Balkan road, which can only be negotiated at a snail's pace with heavy truck traffic.

The driver has his full concentration on the narrow road, while I, as the passenger, have enough time to devote my full attention to the indescribable landscape.

Contrary to expectations, we finally reach our destination today and reside at the foot of the rocks on which the Meteora monasteries stand.

On the way to Katerini

The dark monumental rock giants with their sacred decoration can now only be seen in the rearview mirror and are becoming smaller and smaller until they disappear completely from our field of vision.

After a few kilometers on the highway toward Thessaloniki , Mount Olympus , with its white snow cap, appears on the side and later in front of us. A small cloud hangs over the peak, resembling a flag, with which Zeus is waving to us in a friendly manner.

Enlivened by the accompaniment of Sirtaki rhythms, sufficiently informed by well-signposted traffic signs that easily guide us into the correct lane, we enjoy the relaxed ride.

Additionally, I notice that roadsides and parking bays are finally clean and free of trash. The problem of pollution, which has plagued us for a long time, has always been very annoying and disgusting.

Unfortunately, my positive opinion doesn't last long. Our current campsite resembles a hopeless, neglected mess that's been crying out for modernization for some time. A walk to the beach reveals the same scene. Only the beachfront restaurants maintain their classy ambiance.

Road trip to Bulgaria

We've planned a lot of mileage for today, so we'll take the highway that will take us to the border with Bulgaria.

A small hitchhiker seems to want a ride and sticks itself to our windshield. The stowaway manages to cope with the rapid speed surprisingly well, but soon takes off. During one of our rest stops while filling up the car, I spot a small lizard that quickly disappears into the bushes. With these highlights in our luggage, we enter Bulgaria.

The character of the landscape we're traveling through reminds me strongly of our hilly region back home. There are a few fruit trees and lilacs in bloom, and snow-capped mountains gleam in the background. The only difference is that colorful mosques grace the villages.

We hope that an opportunity will arise to restock our supplies. For this, we absolutely need cash (lev), and ideally an ATM. We're lucky: a shopping center offers the option of printing bills, and the attached Lidl supermarket makes it easier for us to find familiar products, which we pack without hesitation, since we're already quite hungry.

We reach our campsite near Batak in the late afternoon and are looking forward to a walk to the lake.

It's raining, it's raining... we continue towards Ruse

The rain knocked quietly but steadily against our RV all night. With the rain forecast, we didn't feel like sitting around all day in our small, albeit cozy, cabin, so we decided to continue on toward Ruse.

Another long drive lies ahead of us. Campsites in the interior of Bulgaria are very sparsely spread, so the Kapinovsky Monastery campsite is our only option. Unfortunately, we weren't able to find a spot near a town or a cultural institution worth visiting, which would allow us to use public transport to get to the center of the action. Perhaps we still need to improve our language skills to be able to interpret the Cyrillic alphabet correctly.

Our RV thus transforms into a sightseeing bus. We wind through spectacular gorges, drive through small towns, observe fertile fields and lush green meadows, and watch the wisps of fog linger between the mountains. Despite these autumnal images, we feel cozy and warm in our refuge. We've made a satisfactory arrangement with the rain.

The evening after our arrival, the miserable weather calms down. We immediately set out to explore the surrounding area of the idyllic campsite.

From the Balkans to the Carpathians

Hiking in the Carpathian Mountains in Romania – with this in mind, we set off. We cross the border at Ruse , which lies right in the middle of the Danube Bridge. This ancient and firmly anchored structure, in need of renovation, spans the river.

Somehow, I can't shake the feeling that the villages we've been driving through since the border present themselves with pride and renewed splendor. In contrast to their Bulgarian counterparts, they exude order and attractiveness. Most of the houses in the villages along the road have been renovated, and their front gardens are clean and well-kept.

We check in at the Dracula Campsite after first getting the local currency (ron). Our plans to go hiking tomorrow seem off the cards. This area is full of steep slopes—perhaps suitable for climbing, but not for us hikers. What seems even more dangerous to us, however, are bloodthirsty vampires, from whom we try to protect ourselves with a garlic-enriched supper, and starving bears that hopefully won't smell our scent. Our campsite is protected from intruders by an electric fence, like Alcatraz.

I wish us and all readers a good night.

On the way to Sibiu

We survived the night shivering and fearful. Somehow, the image of a bear coming out of the dark forest toward our RV became ingrained in my mind. This image haunted me even in my dreams. I'm relieved that we skipped the hike and chose to visit Sibiu instead of this risky maneuver.

We have plenty of time today, and there are many opportunities to admire the details of the renovated houses we pass. I find their playful stucco moldings framing the arched windows particularly beautiful. Houses, fences, and even the hay barns are not only functional but also stylishly built, often reminding me of delicately decorated cakes. The churches, which stand out in every village as the center of the religious community, are not to be overlooked.

The section of the Carpathians we're traveling through today presents an immense challenge for road maintenance. We repeatedly encounter construction sites because slopes have slipped due to the rain or trees are blocking the way. It's a tough job for the workers, as it's still raining. For us, however, there was plenty of time to observe a horse-drawn cart, a so-called "Tandel Kramer." I'm amazed that one of these still exists and fascinated by what it's packed onto its trailer. A good horse!

I'm looking forward to exploring the city tomorrow. Hopefully the rain front will pass soon.

Our journey is coming to an end

With the visit to Sibiu, we slowly close our binkerl, which is full to the brim with a variety of impressions from this unforgettable trip.

We have started our journey home via Hungary and will spend another two days here.

Barely over the border, the linguistic debacle begins again. Although written in Latin script, many place names are barely legible while driving by, and I don't even want to attempt to pronounce these tongue twisters correctly. Have fun and good luck with your reading and speaking exercises!

Bright red poppies, which have always accompanied us on our journeys, quickly gathered at the side of the road and are lined up in a row to mark our departure.

Stop at Lake Balaton

From our accommodation to Lake Balaton, there are still a few kilometers and intersections and turnoffs to negotiate. The navigation system, not always my best friend, is supposed to help me choose the right path. And so, once again, I sit with this aid on my lap, observing when and how far away the next intersection is where I can turn right or left. At the same time, as the passenger, my eyes are fixed on an analog road map and the street signs. And then it happens again – after spotting our destination on a signpost, I announce: "We have to keep right!" – he goes straight ahead. Missed it, turned around again. I grumbled, he gets annoyed, asks the navigation system, and we find the right turning lane. This incident is followed by icy silence until we finally have lunch in our stomachs, which calms our spirits.

I'd like to explain in more detail why my relationship with the navigation system is strained. This clever app always determines the shortest route, but it's not always the best. With this support, we've often taken detours on bumpy roads. It's almost a miracle that our RV hasn't broken down in pieces on the road yet.

We cross the Danube at Dunaföldvar and drive for a long time on the highway that runs alongside the lake until we reach our destination, Kesthely . A stormy wind prompts us to have coffee in our cozy living room.

But at some point, despite the cold, we feel like getting some fresh air, so we brave the wind and weather and go for a walk along the shore of Lake Balaton.

Letting our gaze wander over the lake and reflecting on the past weeks is like meditation and inner contemplation. We feel immense gratitude for this wonderful, uneventful journey.

Back home

Our Balkan tour is now over. For four weeks, we explored some previously unknown countries.

The beginning of the trip was marked by some uncertainty for us, as various media outlets repeatedly presented the Balkan countries with only negative headlines.

To our pleasant surprise, however, this turned out to be a big mistake. We had always felt very safe in all the countries we visited. However, we also always stayed at official campsites, which, given the prices charged (except in Croatia), had little impact on our travel budget. Everywhere we went, we met extremely friendly people who repeatedly spoke to us and showed genuine interest in where we came from.

Unfortunately, we were unable to visit some regions as we had hoped, as there are large areas where I was unable to find any suitable campsites in advance.

The entire tour, which was far too short in time, gave us a good overview of what this unique region of Europe has to offer. However, we've already decided to visit some of these countries again, such as Albania and Romania.

Finally, I would like to thank my dear wife, who is responsible for the atmospheric texts of all the previous contributions.