Route description for Summer 2025. British Columbia. Alaska. Yukon. Alberta. Wilderness.

The plan: By train to Zurich-Kloten. By direct Edelweiss flight to Vancouver. By cab to the hotel downtown. In the evening, a walk along the Harbour and through Stanley Park.

The journey begins. The SBB IR2063 takes me from Basel to Zurich Airport in Kloten at 8:37 a.m., a journey of one and a half hours. I go through check-in and security in 10 minutes, then wait in the Swiss Lounge for boarding at 1:25 p.m. Business Class certainly has its advantages and amenities. Boarding begins on time, and I take my reserved seat, 5A. The Airbus A320 then takes off half an hour late for the nearly ten-hour flight from Zurich to Vancouver. There are two good meals at the beginning and end of the flight, with time in between for watching movies from the extensive media library, reading, or sleeping. The plane lands at Vancouver International Airport at 3:00 a.m. local time, or midnight Swiss time. Half an hour later, I'm already through immigration (at the self-service kiosk with app and facial recognition), have collected my luggage, and am in a taxi driving through rush hour to downtown. I check into my room at the Victorian Hotel on Homer Street. The hotel is expensive, but ideally located, right next to the old town (Gastown) and the waterfront with Canada Place. I spend a good hour strolling around the area, exploring several streets. Finally, I go to Streamworks on the harbor; this attractive and spacious pub serves my first moules frites. I'm back at the hotel by eight o'clock and go to sleep. There's a nine-hour time difference, after all.

The weather. In Switzerland this morning it is cloudy and rainy with a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius. In Vancouver this afternoon the sun is shining with a temperature of 23 degrees Celsius.

The verdict : A typical transit day, long, but less trouble-free than expected. The plus: The upgrade to business class was worth it. The minus: The first impression of Vancouver is disturbing: a lot of misery with drugs and homelessness, and at night, noise right outside the hotel. Experience value: ●●●○○.

The links: Flyedelweiss.com; Victorianhotel.ca; Vancouver.ca; Wikipedia.org.

The plan: City tour with hop-on hop-off bus service. Walks in Stanley Park and downtown with a view from the Viewtower Lookout.

The Implementation (1/2). At 9:30 a.m., I board the sightseeing bus not far from the hotel. There's only one line with 14 stops. The double-decker buses here are—rather unusually—enclosed and fully equipped with toilets. After the first five stops, I get off at Stanley Park and explore the park on a two-hour walk, first around the outside on the Seawalk, then across the park on the Tatlow Trail back to the bus station. After a quick refreshment, I board the next bus for the remainder of the city tour.

The links: bigbustours.com/vancouver. vancouver.ca/parks/stanley-park.

The Implementation ( 2/2 ). After seeing the highlights of Vancouver through the bus window on the way to stops 6 to 14, I decide to take a walk through the city center between the major shopping streets Robson and Georgia. Afterwards, I continue walking to the small Gastown district. There, by the steam-powered Steam Clock, I sit down on the boulevard at the Water St. Café for dinner. The spaghetti vongole is good, but nothing special.

The weather. A hot day with increasing temperatures reaching 30 degrees the evening before.

The verdict : An exploration couldn't be more contrasting, with the tranquility and unspoiled nature of Stanley Park and the vibrant, hectic bustle of a 2.6 million-strong metropolis. The plus: The redwoods in Stanley Park. The minus: 42 francs for the bus; in many other major cities, you can get around for less with significantly more service. Experience value: ●●●●●.

The links: vancouver.ca, waterstreetcafe.ca.

The Implementation (1/2). The first day in the Scout is over, and I'm getting used to it. The cabin is cramped, but adequate for one person. The bed in the alcove and the bedding are good, though getting in and out without assistance is a bit of a struggle for seniors. Boiling water for my first coffee on the gas stove works well in the morning, and the unpacked household items are also functional. After two hours, I'm organized and satisfied for now. At ten o'clock, I leave Pembroketon and continue on BC-99. For the first 100 kilometers, I drive through the mountains, accompanied almost exclusively by other campers. The highway leads over a long, 1,250-meter-high pass and is called the Duffy Lake Road in this section—a scenic route with many viewpoints. Shortly after noon, I reach the first town, Lilioet, with the Reynolds Hotel and my first chicken burger in the company of some Harley veterans. I continue through the now more barren, but no less charming, Rockies along the Fraser River. It's still 55 kilometers to Cache Creek.

The plan: Continue driving on the Yellowhead Highway to Hazelton. Stop at Witset Canyon. Visit the historic sites 'Ksan' and Old Hazelton.

The implementation. Today I'm driving a short 90-kilometer leg on the Yellowhead Highway from Tyhee Lake to Hazelton. After 10 kilometers, I reach the small town of Smithers, considerably more attractive than the artificial towns I've seen recently. So, a good opportunity for a fuel stop, a short walk, and a coffee on the go. I linger longer at the next stop, Witset Canyon. Normally, the Wet'suwent'en demonstrate their fishing technique here in late summer, spearing salmon with long lances in the canyon. As luck would have it, a film crew is shooting today, and I can watch. Although fish traps are attached to the lances today, with their astounding technique and movement against the current, I estimate that about one in ten attempts is successful, resulting in a salmon in the net. Shortly before Hazelton, I stop twice more. First, there are two lookouts for the Hagwilget Bridge, an old steel bridge, one lane in operation on wooden planks. Devilish, but manageable. Then I visit the small but informative Hazelton Visitor Center. From there, I'm immediately in Old Hazelton and drive to the 'Ksan Historical Village and its 'Ksan Campground at the entrance to the village. I get a dry site right on the Skeena River.

The plan: Continue north to Meziadin Junction and make a detour to Stewart on a Pacific fjord. Visits to Kitwanga (National Historic Site) and Hyder (Alaska enclave).

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving a total of 290 kilometers from Hazelton to Stewart. Originally, I had planned to spend the night in Meziadin Provincial Park after 210 kilometers. There was no cell service, so I spontaneously added a 60-kilometer detour to the Portland Canal. I did find cell service again in the small town of Stewart. 50 kilometers past Hazelton, at Kitwanga, my route diverges from the Yellowhead Highway (16 West to Prince Rupert) to BC-37 North, the Cassiar Highway. Johnson's Restaurant at the junction is inviting, and I get a good Canadian lumberjack breakfast with an omelet. This particular cuisine is simply part of the experience when touring in North America. Kitwanga is the center of the First Nations tribe for which it is named and has three points of interest: totem poles, St. Paul's Church (although only the bell tower remains; the church burned down in 2021), and the Battle Field, a national memorial with a short trail. I then visited the General Store, after which I continued north on the Cassiar Highway. I had downloaded offline maps as a precaution, which proved useful as I immediately lost reception. I stopped again in Gitanyow after 20 kilometers. A signpost pointed to more totem poles.

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The plan: Continue north on the Cassiar Highway... as far as I like. The journey is the destination.

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving 398 kilometers north from Stewart to Dease Lake. There are no tourist attractions; my attention is solely focused on this fascinating mountain landscape in northern British Columbia. First, I return 60 kilometers from the Pacific Fjord to the route at Meziadin Junction. Unfortunately, due to the weather, I don't see any more of this uniquely beautiful scenery along the spur road than I did yesterday on the way there. I make my first coffee stop at the Meziadin Gasbar to warm up, as a cool wind is constantly blowing off the fjord. For the next 100 kilometers north on the Cassiar Highway, I mostly gather impressions from the roadside, as the view of the surroundings is still largely obscured by thick clouds this morning. Shortly after noon, I stop at Roadhouse Bill II, a respectable lodge with a restaurant. I enjoy being surprised by the food here, because I certainly wasn't expecting such a delicious tuna poke bowl with so many fresh, even high-end ingredients like avocado. The only thing I didn't see in the washroom was a bear.

The plan: Continue on the Cassier Highway to Watson Lake. Stop in Jade City. Visit the Post Sign Forest and the Northern Lights Center in Watson Lake.

The journey continues. Today I'm driving the last stretch of the Cassier Highway, a total of 258 kilometers from Dease Lake to Watson Lake. This completes my northward crossing of British Columbia and marks my entry into the Yukon Territory. The landscape is as captivating as it was the day before. For the first hour, low clouds obscure the view, but gradually there are breaks in the clouds and brief bursts of sunshine. The highway winds endlessly along rivers, their valleys, and past countless idyllic lakes. There are no towns along the entire route; the only change of scenery is a lonely jade shop, where everyone stops because they offer free coffee alongside all sorts of jade items. There are some beautiful pieces, and I can watch the polishing process. The stop is definitely worthwhile. Parts of the last 70 kilometers leave me pensive, almost saddened. The road passes through large areas affected by past wildfires, also a consequence of climate change. Similar scenes to those we unfortunately witnessed in Yellowstone during our last US tour in 2014.

The plan: Continue northwest on the Alaska Highway towards Whitehorse. Walk to Rancheria Falls, visit the Continental Divide with its lodge, and explore Teslin.

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving 252 kilometers from Watson Lake to Teslin, a trading post during the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898. The Alaska Highway runs along a plateau following the Continental Divide and also along the border between Yukon and British Columbia. The starting and ending points are in Yukon, but the road is mostly in British Columbia. Aside from the distant views of mountains, forests, and lakes, there isn't much to see. Today's and tomorrow's stretch to Whitehorse is purely transit, as the guidebook also states. I first stop at the Ranchiera Lodge; there's only a sign indicating the Historic Site. A little further on, the Ranchiera Falls are worth a stop. A short trail leads to the tranquil spots around the waterfalls. Then I stop at the Continental Divide. To the west, everything flows to the Pacific Ocean, to the east to the Arctic Ocean. I continue driving because the lodge is showing its age, the restaurant is run-down and offers nothing. After almost five hours of travel, I can see my destination for today, Lake Teslin, in the distance.

The plan: Continue driving on the Alaska Highway to Whitehorse. En route, visit the Teslin Museums, stop at Crossing Junction and Marsh Lake. First impressions of Whitehorse.

The Implementation (1/2). Shortly before five o'clock, a sky aglow with dawn heralds the imminent sunrise. I watch it, fascinated, for a while, sitting by the lake. After a short nap, I continue my journey in the morning, driving 202 kilometers northwest from Teslin on the Alaska Highway, which from this point on is quite busy, to Whitehorse, the territory's capital, situated on the Yukon River. First, however, I stop at the George Johnston Museum on the outskirts of Teslin. It's nine o'clock, and the small, interesting exhibit about the founder's life with the First Nations is just opening. Less encouragingly, at the Tlingit Heritage Center, only three kilometers further on, a "Closed" sign hangs on the door, without any explanation, even though it should have been open since nine o'clock today. I quickly look around the grounds; there's little to see. Today's drive is similar to yesterday's: lots of beautiful scenery, but no interesting places to stop. The Johnston Crossing Lodge, halfway along the route, is also closed. And so I stop briefly at a rest area near the confluence of the M'Clintock River and Marsh Lake. The lake and river lie before me, tranquil and majestic, enhancing the rest during a short walk.

The plan: A short hike in the morning at Miles Canyon. A visit to the Fish Ladder at Whitehorse Rapids. A walk in Whitehorse. A visit to the MacBride Museum. Relaxing at the campsite in the afternoon.

The Implementation (1/2). At nine o'clock, I drive the Scout along the 10-kilometer scenic route, Miles Canyon Drive. At the suspension bridge over the Yukon River, I walk for half an hour along the Yukon River Trail. From here to Whitehorse, the Yukon has lost much of its wildness. In 1958, a hydroelectric power plant was built, creating the Schwatka Lake reservoir. The large Whitehorse Rapids south of the city disappeared as a result. I drive back and cross to the other side of the Yukon to the dam. There, I can see fish ladders for salmon on their way upstream, allowing them to overcome the 30-meter-high dam.

The Implementation (2/2). From the dam, I drive back to Whitehorse and park the Scout at the RV park of the Visitor Center. The information and films cover the entire Yukon; there's no chance of taking in even a fraction of it in a reasonable amount of time. The car stays parked, and I explore the Whitehorse Visitor Center on foot. It's not that big; the so-called "busy zone" encompasses four blocks along Main Street. I visit the interesting exhibit on wildlife, relics from the pioneer era, and the First Nations. Two hours pass quickly. Back outside, I gather a few more impressions of the city, then, around 3:00 PM, I sit down on the terrace of Woodcutter's Blanket. The bison rigatoni with Bolognese on the menu is calling my name. Afterward, I drive back to the camp; I still have some administrative work to do.

The weather. It will be another beautiful summer day with pleasant temperatures of 18 to 25 degrees.

The verdict: Another good day, half nature, half culture. The plus: The trail at Miles Canyon. No minus. Experience value ●●●●○.

The special thing . Following the recommendation at the Visitor Center, I reserve the RV park in Skaqway for tomorrow evening and the ferry to Haines the following day. The scenic route through another Alaskan enclave is, as always, packed. In the evening, I submit the I-94 form for entering the US by land. No sooner have I done so than I receive the first tsunami warnings from the weather app Alertable about the Pacific tsunami due to the massive earthquake in Russia. They affect the Aleutian Islands and Vancouver Island. I follow the news.

The plan : Continue along the Klondike Highway to Skagway, Alaska, one of Canada's most scenic routes. Along the way are Carcross Desert, Carcross Railway Station, the Suspension Bridge, and the US border. Visit to the historic town of Skagway.

The Implementation (1/3). I start the day at the gas station. The Ford F-150, a hefty 6.5 tons with the small camper body, consumes 12 liters per 100 kilometers. One tank is enough for 850 kilometers. Today I'm driving 199 kilometers from Whitehorse on the Klondike Highway to Skagway on Taiya Inlet, the northernmost fjord of the Inside Passage leading to the Pacific Ocean on Alaska's southeast coast. The drive is indeed worth the detour, as described, with many viewpoints offering stunning views of the striking mountains and idyllic lakes. Like the view of Emerald Lake, also known as Jade Lake because of its blue-green color. And then there's the first walk across the dunes of the Carcross Desert. It feels surreal to encounter this scenery here. Shortly afterward, I visit the small town of Cargross, which includes a First Nations Center, a railway station, and a general store. Cargross is the terminus of the former White Pass & Yukon Route mining railway, now a tourist attraction, which runs up from Skagway. The Matthew Watson General Store, located directly opposite the Railway Station, is said to be the oldest preserved and operating store in the Yukon.

The journey (2/3). From Cargross to Skagway, it's a 90-kilometer drive of unparalleled beauty. Countless viewpoints invite you to linger and marvel. Not surprisingly, alongside RVs, tourist groups in tour buses are becoming increasingly common, arriving as an alternative to the railroad and from cruise ships. A real hotspot for these bus tours is the Yukon Suspension Bridge over the Tushi River Canyon. Just as interesting as the 60-meter suspension bridge is a small exhibition of photos from the Gold Rush era. 35 kilometers before Skagway, I pass the Canadian border post, and 12 kilometers further on, the American one. Immigration is quicker than expected; aside from a quick look inside the camper, they forgo the usual questioning and let me enter the States. From White Pass, the road descends steadily through a narrow valley to Skagway.

The plan: Sightseeing in Historic Skagway in the morning, taking the Alaska Marine Lines Hubbard ferry to Haines in the afternoon, and relaxing at the Hitch Up RV Park in Haines in the evening.

The Implementation (1/3). At nine o'clock I leave the camp and drive 12 kilometers uphill on a gravel road to the hamlet of Dyea on the Chilkoot Trail, the route taken by gold prospectors. My destination is various viewpoints overlooking Skagway, the fjord, and a shipwreck (unfortunately, it's not low tide and the wreck isn't visible). At ten o'clock I'm back in Skagway and check in at the ferry terminal. I'm the first one there and can park the Scout in Lane 2. I have four hours for a second stroll through town. Today, a steam locomotive is parked at the train station for the Scenic Route to the White Pass. Throughout the town, I keep coming across paintings of the nostalgic railway. I really enjoy the many pictures and information about Skagway's history.

The Implementation (2/2). One million visitors come to Skagway annually, primarily to admire the more than 100 restored facades of the old houses from the turn of the 20th century. Skagway's Broadway proudly calls itself the "Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park." And so, there are countless good reasons to document a visit here. In any case, time flies, and after a refreshment at the Red Onion Saloon, I head to the ferry dock at 1:30. Meanwhile, there are an estimated 60 vehicles waiting.

The Implementation (3/3). Right on time at 2:00 a.m., the 2018 MV Hubbard arrives at the quayside from Haines. Unloading takes longer than expected. There's only one side entrance and exit, the vehicles have to turn around inside the ferry, and there are some very large campervans among them. Loading (only one other campervan besides mine) goes quickly, but the Hubbard still departs a quarter of an hour late. We spend an hour on the fjord, and the panoramic views from the upper deck are fantastic. It's heavily overcast, but it doesn't rain as predicted. At 4:00 a.m., the ferry docks outside of Haines. I drive off and then another 7 kilometers to the Haines Hitch Up RV Park. The rest of the day is for relaxation.

The weather. It will be heavily overcast in the morning and late afternoon, with occasional sunshine and a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius. Rain will begin during the night.

The verdict. As described everywhere, Skagway is entertaining and the Taija Fjord is uniquely beautiful, comparable to Geiranger in Norway. The plus: the trip on the Hubbard. No minus. Experience value ●●●●●.

The plan : Sit out the rain in the morning, then take a short drive in the afternoon to Chilkat State Park, the Lukat River, and visit Haines. Due to the weather, I'm foregoing the scenic flight over Glacier Bay National Park that I had secretly planned.

The Implementation (1/2) . Haines, meaning "end of the road" in the Tinglit Deishú language, is a small town in Haines Borough on the Chilkat Peninsula and also the starting point for visits to Glacier Bay National Park. At eleven o'clock, the thick cloud cover thins and the rain takes a break for the time being. I decide to drive the peninsula from south to north. Leaving Haines, I make a brief stop at Fort Seward, built during the Gold Rush as the only military base in Alaska from 1925 to 1940. Then I begin the scenic Mud Bay Road south along the idyllic Chilkat Inlet to Chilkat State Park, the last 3 of the 15 kilometers on a gravel road. I was hoping for a short trail, but the only Ayiklutu Trail in the park takes 10 hours to hike. However, I don't miss the chance to spend half an hour on the narrow path through the mystical fairytale forest. Another short side road in the state park leads to a rest area overlooking the fjord. I drive back to Haines via the fishing port of Mud Bay (which could also be in Norway).

The plan : Continue along the Haines Highway, a scenic route that follows the Dalton Trail north to Haines Junction. Stops along the way along the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preverse, then cross the border back into Canada, with short trails in the Yukon depending on available time.

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving 256 kilometers from Haines to Haines Junction on the Haines Highway. I'm reluctant to leave the Hitch Up RV Park; it was by far the best-maintained on the trip so far. Still in Haines, I decide to visit the "fairgrounds" first, out of interest. It largely corresponds to the ghost town of Historic Dalton City with its two short rows of buildings. There's also a plaza with two small rides for children, various booths and food stalls, and an exhibition hall. Of course, there aren't any visitors at 8:30 a.m. Then I drive for half an hour on the Haines Highway until I reach the reserve of the 3,500 bald eagles. There are several viewpoints along the next 10 kilometers, but the bald eagles don't make an appearance. This might be because the road is being resurfaced in the middle 5 kilometers, and the pullouts are closed due to one-way traffic. The views of the meandering Chilkat River with the misty mountains are still very impressive, though. Shortly before the Canadian border, I pass the only roadhouse on today's leg. It's still closed. The friendly border guard basically just asks me about alcohol and drugs, when I'll be leaving Canada for home, and waves me through immediately: "Have a good day." I continue on, again in heavy rain, slowly but steadily climbing to the summit of the Haines Highway.

The journey (2/3). The Haines Highway shows its best side along the 60 kilometers across a high plateau and to the summit at 1,070 meters above sea level. Even though the sun is absent and the clouds obscure some of the view, the panoramic vistas along the entire route remain fantastic. At eleven o'clock, the rain stops, the sun begins to break through, and I reach the Million Dollar Falls Campground via a short gravel road. Thirty-five spacious campsites are spread out in a circular area in the woods and are barely occupied. From the day-use parking lot, a half-hour trail begins, leading up numerous wooden steps to the impressive Tatshenshini River waterfall.

The plan : Continue driving on the Alaska Highway, Scenic Route, towards Beaver Creek. Take in whatever comes along the way and stop wherever it's worthwhile.

The Implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 295 kilometers from Haines Junction to Beaver Creek on the Alaska Highway. I start the day at 7:00 a.m. with a Canadian breakfast at the Cozy Corner Motel near the campground. Then I fill up the Scout's tank and begin my drive on the Alaska Highway, with the impressive mountains and lakes of Kluane National Park always in view on the driver's side. After an hour's drive, I reach Kluane Lake, the largest lake in the Yukon. I skip the side road to Silver City (Ghosttown Goldrush). Shortly after, however, I stop at the Thechal Dhal Visitor Center. Just a short time ago, the tongue of an arm of the Kaskawulsh Glacier was visible here; today, the Kluane Lake delta is ice-free and dry. It is estimated that the 150 glaciers in the national park will continue to recede drastically, and some will disappear entirely by 2030. Dramatic. Unfortunately, there's no sign of the large population of Dall sheep (Alaska Snow Sheep) that live here. They, too, migrate to higher elevations in the summer. I continue driving and half an hour later, still at Kluane Lake, arrive at the Kluane Museum in Burwash Landing. It's well worth a visit; there's another informative exhibit on the wildlife and history of the Kluane First Nation.

The second part of the journey (2/2). After the interesting Kluane Museum, Destruction Bay, still on Kluane Lake, is a short distance away, a motel and the last roadhouse before Beaver Creek. Later, the highway leaves Kluane Lake and follows the Kluane River. The condition of the Alaska Highway deteriorates, with roadworks (even on Sundays) and sections of loose gravel (extreme conditions) becoming increasingly frequent. The fantastic views don't change that. I stop at the Lake Creek Campground and check it out. None of the 27 beautiful sites are occupied; three at least have signs saying "Paid, not available." Mosquitoes! I continue driving and stop at Pickhandle Lake, not a campground, but a recreation site on the idyllic lake.

The plan: Continue driving on the Alaska Highway across the US border and along the Tetlin Wildlife Refuge to Tok, Alaska. Alert 511 road conditions list two wildfire warnings directly on the highway, one shortly after Beaver Creek and another near Tok. I'll just set off, remaining flexible in case of necessary changes to the itinerary.

The Implementation (2/3). Today I'm driving from Beaver Creek, ultimately covering 404 kilometers on the Alaska Highway to Tok, but then continuing straight on the Tok Cut-off Highway and the Glenn Highway to my next destination, Glennallen. I'm making good time today, and there aren't any destinations or trails along the way that warrant a longer stay. This gives me an extra day to explore southern Alaska (Homer). I'm setting off early because I don't want to miss the special atmosphere of the morning as the rain eases. After about 20 kilometers, I pass the spot where there was a fire on both sides of the highway two days ago. With the continuous rain last night, the last traces have disappeared; the warning signs are still there, but passing through is safe. A short time later, I'm in Alaska and stop at the US Border. The friendly officer checks my fingerprints against those in my biometric passport but doesn't ask any questions. After two minutes, I get my passport stamped and can enter the country. I wouldn't mind a coffee right now, but the Border City is nothing more than a ghost town. The next stop is the informative Visitor Center of the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, which offers a great view, but no trail. Half an hour later, I arrive at the Seaton Recreational Area of the wildlife refuge, with a short trail around a small lake.

The Implementation (2/3). Another half hour later, I reach the first Alaska campground at Deadman Lake: beautiful lakeside location, large sites, functional facilities, "no fees," and half full; remote, lots of mosquitoes, but for once, even with netting. I drive on, but apart from a few viewpoints, there's no more reason to stop until Tok. Shortly before noon, I arrive in Tok and spontaneously decide to continue. After a break with a tank of gas for the Scout and some crispy chicken wings for myself, I turn off the Alaska Highway onto the Tok Cut-off Highway and drive south toward Valdez. Here too, at the edge of Tok, the "Caution. Wildfire ahead" warning signs are still up, but there's no sign of fire or smoke. The road continues for a long time through wide plains dotted with many lakes until the first mountain ridges slowly appear in the background, and snow-capped peaks emerge in the distance. The Tok Cut Off Highway eventually becomes the Glenn Highway. The road is generally in good condition, but there are sections that have suffered from the long, harsh winters. The scenery retains its charm, but again, there are no opportunities for sightseeing.

The plan: A spontaneous detour on the Richardson Highway along the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park to Valdez on the Prince William Highway.

The Implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 198 kilometers from Glennallen on the Richardson Highway to Valdez, Alaska's most important ice-free seaport (Trans-Alaska Pipeline), made famous by two events: its complete destruction by an earthquake and tsunami in 1964, and the Exxon Valdez oil tanker disaster in 1989, which caused a massive oil spill off the coast. After 30 kilometers, I reach the Visitor Center of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. I'm early and have to wait half an hour until the gate to the park opens at nine o'clock. But it's worth it, because it has very informative exhibits, and the view of the volcanoes is phenomenal despite the clouds. At the park model, an older ranger tells me that the park is about the size of Switzerland, and he hasn't even seen everything yet. 20 kilometers further on, I stop at the Copper Center, a relic from the pioneer days and known for its festival and salmon fishing charters.

The journey continues (2/3). The drive along the beautifully laid-out Richardson Highway continues, and for a long time, the view repeatedly takes in the snow-capped volcanoes of the Wangell Mountains. The highway is quite busy compared to the last few drives; Valdez is a popular day-trip destination. I slowly approach the mountains on the Pacific coast, and the Worthington Glacier in the Chugach Mountains comes increasingly into view. A short side road leads to a parking area near the glacier's tongue. A narrow mountain trail takes me to within 200 meters of the ice in half an hour. A small exhibit at the parking area warns of climate change. From the glacier, it's not far to Thomson Pass.

The plan : A six-hour cruise on Prince William Sound, from Valdez through Valdez Arm to Columbia Bay and its glacier, and back. Booked with Stan Stephens Glacier & Wildlife Cruises in Valdez. US$170. Afternoon visit to Valdez museums.

The Implementation (1/3). It means an early start. Check-in at Stan Stephens' quay is at 6:30 a.m., and the Valdez Spirit sets sail with us at 7:30 a.m. There are only 29 of us, ideal considering the boat has a capacity of 149 passengers. However, it's still heavily overcast in the direction we're traveling; the sun is nowhere to be seen, contrary to the forecast. The lady at the helm is also our tour guide and sets full throttle (20 knots) out onto the Valdez Arm. Despite the cold wind, almost everyone, bundled up in varying degrees of warmth, spends the first two hours on the upper deck, taking in the ever-changing views of the impressive mountains surrounding the fjord. We spot a few bald eagles on the mountain slopes, unfortunately too far away for a photo. At the turning point near Glacier Island, however, we get quite close to several colonies of Steller sea lions.

The second part of the trip (2/3). Before heading back, the boat turns onto Columbia Bay. Just in time, the sun begins to appear. And the small ice floes drifting towards us become increasingly dense as we approach the Columbia Glacier. For the next half hour, we cruise through the ice floes in front of the glacier. For me, it's a sublime moment, perhaps one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. This unique natural spectacle alone makes the trip to Alaska worthwhile, especially since it was a spontaneous, unplanned experience. It's not a disadvantage for me that our crew, despite constantly scanning the water, doesn't spot any whales today. To warm up, the crew serves clam chowder with a Philadelphia bagel. Then it's back out onto the upper deck, and with endless admiration of the fjord landscape, the return trip flies by. After six short hours, we leave the Valdez Spirit at 1:30 pm, filled with many impressions.

The implementation (3/3). Thanks to the early boat trip, I now have plenty of time for a stroll through the small town of Valdez and a visit to its two museums. While the exhibits on wildlife and First Nations topics shown in the previous museums are somewhat repetitive, they are definitely worth a visit, as the displays are well-designed and created with great care. This is true first at the privately owned Maxine & Jesce Museum, and later at the state-run Valdez Museum. I'm always fascinated by the historical photographs in these places, especially those I find in the spacious Visitor Center located between the two museums. After soaking up so much culture and history, I sit down again with a pint of Irish Red Ale in front of the Valdez Brewery. I hadn't planned on eating anything else, but the halibut basket at the next table is too tempting. I get some right next door at Poor Betty's. And they're not just a feast for the eyes. In the evening, I sit in front of the Scout until the sun loses its warmth.

The weather. Clouds thicken overnight, and it remains cloudy for much of the morning before the sun finally breaks through in the late morning, bringing temperatures of 15 to 18 degrees.

The verdict: An unforgettable day, the Alaskan dream come true. The plus: Columbia Bay with its glacier. No minus. Experience value ●●●●●.

The plan : Rainy days are forecast, and therefore driving days are planned. I'll continue towards Anchorage and Seward, going as far as possible today. Stops and overnight stays wherever it's worthwhile despite the rain.

The Implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 450 kilometers from Valdez on the Richardson and Glenn Highways to the small town of Palmer in the Matanuska Valley, just under 70 kilometers from Anchorage. I start at seven o'clock and first drive the 198 kilometers back to Glennallen on the Richardson Highway. Much looks different in the opposite direction, yet the route through the Lowe River Canyon, over Thomson Pass, and following the Copper Valley is also familiar. The Wrangell Mountains come back into view, and surprisingly, they aren't obscured by clouds this morning as they were on the way there. I stop at the recreation site at Pippin Lake, which I missed on the way out. After two and a half hours of driving alone, I reach Glennallen. First, I stop at the restaurants to refuel, then back to Ernesto's for a late breakfast with a good garden omelette and coffee.

The Implementation (2/3). Fortified by a Mexican breakfast, I continue my journey, now back on the Glenn Highway towards Anchorage. The first 100 kilometers across a long plateau are rather monotonous and reminiscent of Finland: flat, forested, and dotted with lakes. Then new mountains come into view, and the Glenn Highway winds its way up to Eureka Pass. I stop at the roadhouse on the pass, which, of course, also features a mountain lake. From the pass, the road climbs again across a plateau, continuing westward towards the mountains. 90 kilometers before today's destination, Palmer, I pass the high-altitude viewpoint overlooking the Matanuska Glacier. The highway now descends into the Matanuska Valley and follows its river.

The plan : Continue on Glenn Highway to Anchorage and on Seward Highway to Seward, a seaport in the Kenai Peninsula Borough.

The Implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 299 kilometers from Palmer back south to the Pacific coast, to Seward on Resurraction Bay. It's a long drive with heavy traffic, the likes of which I only experienced at the beginning of my trip in Vancouver. On the 70 kilometers from Palmer to Anchorage, the Glenn Highway becomes a four-lane, and eventually a six-lane, freeway. This is also the first such stretch since Vancouver, and in rather uninspiring surroundings. Almost everyone is driving faster than the 65 mph speed limit and whizzes past me. After 40 minutes of stressful driving, the Glenn Highway in Vancouver becomes a four-lane main road that cuts through the heart of the metropolis from north to south. Many traffic lights on this urban thoroughfare turn red, giving me a chance to get my first impressions of Alaska's largest city (though not its capital). For me, neither a stop nor an extended visit is worthwhile, and I'm relieved to continue south on the two-lane Seward Highway, also a Scenic Byway, outside the city. After 10 kilometers, the turnoff to the Potter Marsh Wildlife Refuge appears, offering an opportunity for a first stop. I spend a good hour walking along various boardwalks in the nature reserve. The highway then crosses the Chugach National Forest (also known as Chugach State Park) and runs alongside the railway for a long 80 kilometers directly on the shore of Turnagain Arm, an extension of the large Cook Inlet.

The second part (2/3). The Seward Highway now follows the Turnagain Arm, an inlet of the large Cook Inlet, for a long 80 kilometers, directly along its shore and right next to the railway. At the end of the Turnagain Arm and at the mouth of the Placer River lies the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, part zoo, part wildlife sanctuary, and my second stop today. I spend a good two hours walking through the extensive grounds, past the enclosures of varying sizes. I estimate that about half of the many visitors, like me, complete the tour on foot; others drive through it in their cars or RVs. A worthwhile visit.

The plan: Continue along the Sterling Highway to Homer on Kachemak Bay, an arm of Cook Inlet, on the other side of the large Kenai Peninsula than Seward on Prince William Sound.

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving 294 kilometers from Seward across the Kenai Peninsula to Homer Spin. I'm starting early at seven o'clock. Seward and Resurraction Bay are shrouded in thick fog; the weather app poetically calls it a humid haze. But after just half an hour's drive away from the Pacific Ocean, it starts to clear up and the sun breaks through. I make my first stop at Mouse Pass on Mouse Lake for a coffee Americano. At Tern Junction, I turn off the Seward Highway onto the Sterling Highway, which leads from here to Homer. An idyllic recreation area near Tern Junction invites me to take another short break. Now the highway follows the Kenai River for a long stretch; at Coopers Landing, among other places, there are numerous offers for river rafting or charter salmon fishing. A short time later, at Jean Lake and Creek, the barren mountain slopes remind me once again of devastating wildfires. There are several towns along the highway, but none of them entice me to stop. At Glam Gulch, fog heralds the approach of Cook Inlet, and it begins to drizzle again at times. Many of the settlements along this coast have a Russian history, as evidenced by the Orthodox church at Ninilchick. Half an hour further on lies Anchor Point, whose beach is known as "North America's most westward highway point."

The plan: In the morning, a short tour over Kachemak Hill and through Homer Town. Visit to Old Homer City. Beluga Trail at the Alaska Marine Wildlife Center. In the afternoon, beach walk and recreation.

The Implementation (1/2). The day begins with a short walk to the beach and the ferry terminal at Land's End, as the view across Kachemak Bay to the mountains of Kenai National Park is now unobstructed. Around nine o'clock, I begin the nearly 50-kilometer (31-mile) round trip to explore Homer and its surroundings. At this time, the Spin is still quiet. Before reaching the town, at the end of the peninsula, I turn off towards the airport; beyond it lies the Beluga Wedlands Overlook. I don't encounter any moose on the short trail, however. In Homer, I turn onto West Hill Road, which leads up Kachemak Hill and becomes the Skyline Scenic Drive. At the viewpoint, the fantastic panorama of Kachemak Bay and the mountains of Kenai National Park opens up. Numerous scenic flights over Beluga Lake regularly depart from the airport.

The implementation (2/2). From the viewpoint on Kachemak Hill, I now drive back down to Homer on East Hill Road. It's a typical American small town with little of interest; even the small Old Homer Village isn't worth a visit. There's a Safeway in the center, and I stock up on my few supplies there. The selection of fresh produce at this chain is rather upscale and visually appealing. I continue on to the Alaska Maritime Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center. It's closed on Sundays, which doesn't really bother me, as I came for the Beluga Trail. I spend a good hour walking across the wedland and along the wide beach at low tide—a pleasant, leisurely stroll in the large Homer Bay. Then I drive back across the causeway to Homer Spin and park the Scout. I walk along the beach of the headland to the service area and visit the Harbor Grill again, where I enjoy excellent bucatini with prawns and scallops. The tide has come in, bringing with it a strong north wind, feeling like force 6. Not far from the Harbor Grill, I – like every tourist here – can't resist a visit to the Salty Dawg Saloon. The highlight of this low-ceilinged establishment: the ceiling and walls are covered in dollar bills. The strong wind has made it unpleasant on the coast, so I walk briskly back to camp, not without a quick photo stop. A large seal basks in the sun in front of me on my way back. And I head to the sheltered Scout tent to rest.

The weather. The rain will stop during the night, the sky will clear, and the day will be mostly sunny with temperatures up to 15 degrees Celsius, no warmer, as a stiff breeze will cool things down in the afternoon.

The verdict: A good mix of exploration and relaxation in beautiful surroundings. The plus: The seal in front of me on the path. The minus: Essentially a visitor center that isn't open on Sundays. Experience value: ●●●●○.

The plan : Return to Anchorage and continue on Parks Highway towards Denali National Park. A deliberately long leg, as two-thirds of the route has already been covered. Two breaks, but only for refueling in Anchorage. Walk to Old Village Talkeetna and Susitna River.

The Implementation (1/2). I get up early and set off at 6:13 with the sunrise, as today's destination lies 549 kilometers north near Talkeetna. It's the longest leg of this tour, and I expect a pure driving time of six and a half hours. Leaving Homer, on the slope of Kachemak Hill, I look back one last time at the bay and the mountains in Kenai Fjords National Park. After 30 kilometers, near Anchor Point, I see my first moose. It's a state-owned female moose that shies away from the road and disappears into the forest. A little later, I stop at the viewpoint at Glam Gulch. Invisible in the fog on the way there, today I have a clear view of the two active volcanoes in the Chigmit Mountains in Lale Clark National Park on the other side of Cook Inlet. Even though much of the scenery in the first four hours to Anchorage is familiar, there are also beautiful scenes to be found on the way back. Around 11:00 a.m., I only make a brief stop in Anchorage to refuel. I'm rather relieved to be out of this hectic traffic relatively quickly. The big city may have its charms, but I haven't planned to visit it. At Gateway, the Parks Highway branches off from the Glenn Highway towards Fairbanks, and it's time for a longer break. In the next town, Wasilla, I stop at the Windbreak Cafe and get a good Cajun omelet. The 180 kilometers from Anchorage to Talkeetna offer nothing visually appealing, quite monotonous, primarily a fast connection between Alaska's two largest cities. Near Willow, the mountains of Denali National Park come into view for the first time. Shortly after 3:00 p.m., I reach my destination and park the Scout at the Talkeetna Camping Park.

The plan: Continue along Parks Highway to Denali State Park and Denali National Park. Various viewpoints. Activities and camping depending on information and visitor numbers at the National Park Visitor Center.

The Implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 250 kilometers from Talkeetna on Parks Highway to Park Road at the entrance to Denali National Park. After 45 kilometers, at Denali Viewpoint South, Parks Highway officially becomes a Scenic Byway, as for the next 200 kilometers, the view is constantly framed by the massive Denali Mountains, which accompany the entire route northward. The first 50 kilometers pass through Denali State Park with Viewpoints South and North, followed by the eastern boundary of Denali National Park. Another worthwhile stop is the Hurricane Gulch Bridge, spanning a 90-meter-deep ravine.

The Implementation (2/3). The Scenic Route along Denali, also known as the Alaska Range, is now one of the most beautiful roads I've ever driven. After almost every bend, I want to stop and take in the ever-changing views. The area around Board Summit, in particular, is breathtaking. The drive flies by, and shortly before noon, I turn onto Park Road in Denali National Park and stop at the Riley Campgrounds registration point. All six campgrounds in the park are fully booked. I continue to the bus depot, inquire about available tickets, and book the half-day bus tour to East Folk 43 Miles for the following day. At the same time, I reserve a campsite for two nights at Denali Rainbow Village, four kilometers outside the park. Now I park the Scout in the parking lot at the Visitor Center and briefly visit the interesting exhibit.

The plan: A four-and-a-half-hour bus tour from the Denali Bus Depot on Park Road through the national park to East Fork 43 Miles and back along the same route. Trails along the way or afterwards at Rock Creek near the Visitor Center.

Note : Park Road is the only road in the national park and remains closed for the remaining 51 miles from East Fork due to landslide damage in 2021. It is expected to reopen next summer.

The plan. At 8:30 a.m., I drive to the Denali Bus Depot and first watch the film about the history of the national parks and the construction of the Park Road starting in 1920. By 9:30 a.m., the Green Bus is almost full. I'm early in line, so I choose the seat right behind Matt from Colorado, who is both driver and guide. The downside of this seat: the view through the windshield shows a blue sky. The 43-mile drive to East Fork takes a good three hours, including a stop at the rest area by the Teklanika River and short stops for wildlife viewing. The scenery is uniquely beautiful; the impressive views change almost after every bend. The Park Road winds through several valleys and over Sable Pass, between a variety of mountain formations. We also get a view of Mount McKinley, this time from the opposite side. We see a grizzly bear, several caribou, and a wolverine. However, everything is in the distance, too far even for my 400mm zoom lens. At the turning point of the bus tour, the bridge at the East Fork, we have 15 minutes to stretch our legs.

The second part (2/3). Not far from the East Fork turnaround point, we can see a construction site where Park Road is being repaired after the landslides. Matt asks us to get back on the bus for the return trip. I get back on as well, foregoing a trail along the way. The tour buses are practically full, and Matt had to turn several people away. There's no guarantee of a seat on a later bus. So I'd rather keep my good seat on the reserved bus. The return trip is a bit shorter, as we only stop twice more for a moose and a caribou, both too far away to photograph. However, the magnificent scenery more than compensates, just as it did on the way there. Despite taking the same route, almost everything looks brand new in the opposite direction. We reach the Savage River, 15 miles before the Visitor Center. Up to this point, Park Road is open to private vehicles. Apart from a few RVs heading to their campgrounds, few people take advantage of this option. Most visitors, like me, opt for the tour buses. After a five-and-a-half-hour drive, we arrive back at the bus depot by the Visitor Center. I thank Matt for the sensational experience.

The Implementation (3/3). From the Visitor Center, I immediately begin the Rock Creek Trail, which, together with the Roadsite Hiking Trail, forms a 7.5-kilometer loop over Meadow Hill. The trail initially leads mostly uphill through the forest to two viewpoints. Due to foot problems, I cut the hike short, finding a shortcut at the Rocktail Loop and returning to the Visitor Center after an hour's hike of just under four kilometers. Then I drive back to the camp and sit in the Boardwalk Mall in front of the Black Bear, enjoying a pale ale in the last rays of sunshine. Dark clouds are approaching; it will rain soon.

The weather. Clouds will increase overnight, but during the day the sun will unexpectedly break through the clouds, and it will mostly remain pleasant with temperatures between 15 and 18 degrees Celsius. As predicted, light rain will begin in the evening.

The verdict: Denali National Park lives up to high expectations, offering an unforgettable nature experience. A plus: the many different forms of the mountain ranges. No minuses. Experience value ●●●●●.

Addendum. Four photos, greatly enlarged, unfortunately blurry.

The plan: Continue driving on Parks Highway to Fairbanks. Sightseeing in downtown Fairbanks around lunchtime. Steamboat trip on the Chena River in the afternoon.

The Implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 200 kilometers from Denali Rainbow Village to Fairbanks on the Parks Highway. The drive on the Parks Highway, no longer a Scenic Byway, is mostly monotonous, stretching for a long time across a flat lowland with a steady elevation of 125 meters. There are no hills to be seen on either side, perhaps obscured by low-hanging clouds and the persistent rain. Only the first 12 kilometers through Nenana Canyon, with its view of the Alaska Railroad, are worth seeing. From the gas station in Healy onward, at the latest, it's a dreary, boring, and mostly lonely drive. At several points along the way, there are clear signs of forest fires. It's sobering. After two-thirds of today's journey, I stop in Nenana City with its bridges, the Railroad Museum, and the Ice Classics Tower (symbolizing the annual public wager on when the ice on the Nenana River will break). I continue driving and park near downtown Fairbanks at 11:00 AM. I quickly explore downtown Fairbanks. Nothing particularly noteworthy, just a mix of new and old office buildings, hotels, shops, restaurants, and a few historic houses. I book a boat trip on the Chena River online for the afternoon.

The implementation (3/3). Most of the day-trippers join one of the three groups, which have Indigenous customs explained to them in three different auditoriums. I and a few others take the opportunity to look at the open-air museum with its eight huts in peace and quiet, without the crowds. I like the village; it's well done and authentic. After an hour's stay, we board the Discover III again, and it chugs along comfortably, providing many interesting explanations about Fairbanks and the great importance of salmon fishing for the region. Back at the Steamboat Landing with its huge gift shop, which is always there, I get into the Scout shortly after 5:00 p.m. and drive in the gathering evening traffic to the other side of Fairbanks to the Tanana Valley Campground, where I end my day.

The weather. As forecast, thick clouds will move in overnight, bringing continuous rain with temperatures between 5 and 8 degrees Celsius. Cloud cover and rain will persist throughout the day with temperatures between 12 and 15 degrees Celsius, with only a few brief breaks in the rain during the afternoon.

The verdict: Rain happily waited for my visit to Denali National Park, but I'd rather avoid it now during my visit to Fairbanks, the northernmost point and also the turning point of the tour. The plus: The Chena Village Museum. The minus: A lot of misery with homeless people in downtown. Experience value ●●●●○.

The plan: In the morning, a hike in Creamer's Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge. In the afternoon, a visit to Pioneer (amusement) Park.

The Implementation (1/3). Shortly after nine o'clock, the rain stops, and I drive not far from the campsite to Creamer's Field, a sanctuary for migratory birds, especially cranes. On Komoot, I found a hike that combines two loops: one through Creamer's Field and the other through the adjacent Wedgwood Wildlife Sanctuary, which includes Wander Lake. At the small visitor center, I get information about the migratory birds found here, but also learn that part of my route is closed. The loop across the Wedland leads to marshes and is impassable. This leaves a distance of 7 kilometers instead of 8, and a walking time of 2 hours. The trail is beautiful and easy to walk, and I enjoy the many cranes, the idyllic Wander Lake, and the view of the Wedland with its birch forests. At 11:30 a.m., I continue on to my next destination on this gray and cool day.

The Implementation (2/3). Fairbanks is sprawling, and it's easy to drive 5 to 8 kilometers from one place to another. From Craemer's Field to University Hill, it's exactly 6 kilometers. The University of Alaska operates the Museum of the North there, housed in a magnificent art building with a view over the city. After a warming coffee, I first go to the Arnold Espe Auditorium and watch the film "Dynamic Aurora" about the Northern Lights. Beautiful images, the phenomenon explained very scientifically. Then I walk through the Gallery of Alaska with its natural history exhibits, and afterwards through the Special Exhibitions, currently "Science of Alaska." As is often the case in museums: I let the large relics, paintings, and photos work their magic on me; I simply don't have time for smaller specimens and the many explanations, and I'm also more interested in older eras than more recent ones. After a little over two hours, I end my visit and continue on to my final destination for the day.

The implementation (3/3). Another 5 kilometers from the museum, I stop at Pioneer Park, a small theme park, also a kind of museum, but a completely different, more American amusement park. It's still uncomfortably cold, and the crowds are manageable. Few visitors are drawn here in the afternoon; there will be more in the evening when shows and salmon barbecues are on offer. The few who are here, like myself, are now hurrying through Gold Rush Town and Mining Valley. The nostalgic railroad around the park isn't running due to maintenance. The two museums in the park are the most interesting: the Pioneer Gold Rush Museum and the Pioneer Air Museum. I end my visit to the park and drive back to the Chena River. After searching on Google Maps, the seafood restaurant at Pike's Landing is supposed to be open, but in fact, it's closed due to a fire. As an alternative, I get fast food at Arby's: a classic hot sandwich with Angus beef. Then it's back to camp and early to my warm bunk.

The weather. It rained throughout the night and into the morning, remaining heavily overcast during the day before raining again in the evening. And it was the coldest day of the tour so far, with temperatures between 2 and 4 degrees Celsius at night and 8 to 11 degrees Celsius during the day.

The verdict: A full day spent in the natural surroundings of a nature reserve, with the option of cultural activities at a museum or entertainment at an amusement park if the weather is bad. The plus: The cranes at Creamer's Field. The minus: Fast food instead of seafood. Experience value: ●●●●○.

The plan: A rainy day and the start of the return journey on the Richardson Highway through the Tanana Valley and on the Alaska Highway along the Alaska Range to the "Peaceful Crossroads" Tok.

What's special about it ? Fairbanks is the northernmost point of the tour and lies in Central Alaska at the 65th parallel, similar to Skellefta in Sweden's Västerbotten region. It would be 315 kilometers north to the Arctic Circle on the Steese Highway, and 798 kilometers to Prudhoe Bay on the Arctic Ocean. From Skellefta, it's 961 kilometers to the North Cape.

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving 341 kilometers from Fairbanks on the Richardson Highway to Delta Junction and then on the Alaska Highway to Tok. The Richardson Highway largely follows the floodplains of the Tanana Valley, while the Alaska Highway follows the Alaska Range for the last third. All in all, it's another rather monotonous drive today, as there's hardly anything interesting to see. In the constant rain, I don't think much of taking a few photos at the Tanana River, at the Salcha River landing, at Harding Lake, at Birch Lake, and in Big Delta, where the Trans Alaska Pipeline crosses the Tanana River.

The plan : Continue along the Dirty Road Taylor Highway to Chicken, a historic Gold Rush town for unsuccessful prospectors from Dawson City.

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving 163 kilometers from Tok on the Taylor Highway to Chicken, my last stop in Alaska, 60 kilometers before the Canadian border. The first 20 kilometers are still on the Alaska Highway heading south to Tetlin Junction. Shortly before reaching it, I cross the Tanana River one last time. The viewpoint is located on the abutment of the former iron bridge, which has been replaced by a concrete bridge next to it. In Tetlin Junction, the Taylor Highway branches off, which, together with the Top of the World Highway, forms a shorter route to Dawson City, but only in summer; the highways are closed in winter. The road is mostly paved until Chicken, but riddled with potholes; the last 30 kilometers also feature many gravel sections. I'm not in a hurry; the condition of the road only allows for a maximum speed of 35 mph. I hardly encounter any other vehicles. The road leads over several passes through a vast, untouched mountain and forest landscape; there are no towns along the way, the scenery is the main attraction, including many traces of forest fires. After four and a half hours of very conservative driving, I reach Chicken around 2:30 pm and park the Scout at the relatively empty Chicken Gold Camp.

The plan: Continue across the border into Canada and along the Top of the World Highway to Dawson City on the Yukon River. First visit to the National Historic Site.

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving 175 kilometers from Chicken on the Taylor Highway to the Canadian border at Little Gold Creek, and then continuing on the Top of the World Highway to Dawson City, the quintessential gold rush town on the Yukon. The first 65 kilometers, still in Alaska, are a rough and potholed gravel road, encouraging slow driving at a maximum of 30 to 50 km/h. After that, in Canada, it's a hard-packed dirt road that allows for faster driving up to 70 km/h. Initially, the visibility is relatively good; the clouds are over the mountains. In Canada, the road climbs steadily, with several passes around 1,200 meters in altitude to cross. Many of these are shrouded in fog, and little of the vast, sparsely populated landscape is visible. After three and a half hours of driving (plus a one-hour time difference), I arrive at the Yukon River around 1:30 p.m. There's no bridge across the river, but the George Black Ferry takes vehicles to the other side free of charge every 7 minutes. On the outskirts of town, I park the Scout on a dry site at the Gold Rush Campground. Not for the first time, I have to dust off the camper shell and rear door; the fine sand from the dirt roads gets into every nook and cranny.

The plan: A short drive in the morning to the Discovery Claim Trail at Bonanza Creek and up to the Midnight Dome viewpoint. In the afternoon, Dawson City Museum.

The Implementation (1/3). Four kilometers outside of Dawson City, a gravel road begins, following Bonanza Creek and leading, after 15 kilometers, into the heart of the still-active gold mining area. Commercial miners still operate mines, and independent prospectors still try their luck on the more than one thousand claims. A short, well-maintained "Discovery Claim" trail leads through the area, featuring numerous information panels about gold prospecting in the Bonanza Valley, which, together with Dredge 4, forms a National Historic Site. After half an hour's walk, on my way back, I stop at Dredge 4, a bucket-chain dredger and the largest of its kind in North America.

The Implementation (2/3). After visiting the Bonanza Valley Historic Site, I drive to my next destination. Halfway there, still at Bonanza Creek, I see two moose standing by a small lake. A beautiful sight. Shortly before Dawson City, a side road winds steeply up to Midnight Dome, the striking mountain ridge behind Dawson City. The view of the Yukon River, the city, and Bonanza Valley is breathtaking. I spend a good half hour taking in the scenery. Then I drive back and return the Scout to camp. Now I take another walk along the boardwalks through the city, take a few more special photos, grab a bite to eat at a local restaurant, and head to the museum.

The Implementation (3/3). The Dawson City Museum is housed in the Old Territorial Administration Building and has many interesting exhibits and descriptions spread across two floors in five sections. Two hours fly by. The Mine Railway can also be seen in an adjacent building. Full of impressions, I walk back to camp. For once, I don't retreat to the Scout in the evening; I feel like a walk. My destination is the Diamond Tooth Gerties Gambling Hall, the only establishment offering entertainment. All the tables are occupied; some guests are at the gaming tables, others at the slot machines. I sit at the bar and order a Yukon Gold Ale. The 45-minute revue show with singing and a can-can is quite good; I also watch part of it from the gallery. Beforehand, I naturally don't miss the culinary specialty: Wiener Schnitzel with Spätzle. The best part: The food, which I pick up at a counter, is served by a Swiss man. "E Guete" therefore makes it a truly "homely" moment.

The weather. The heavy cloud cover of the last few days will partially dissipate, and it will be a largely sunny day, with pleasantly warm temperatures of 15 to 18 degrees in the afternoon.

The verdict: Dawson has what it offers, with plenty of history to explore in Bonanza itself or at the City Museum. The highlight: the view from the Midnight Dome. No downsides. Experience value: ●●●●●.

The plan : Rainy day. Continue driving on the Klondike Highway to Stewart Crossing, then turn onto the Silver Trail to Mayo. Visit the Historic Silver Mining Site. Overnight stay north at the Five Lakes Campground.

The worst fears were realized . Due to the poor weather forecast, I decided to forgo the planned detour along the Demster Highway, an 80-kilometer stretch of Extreme Dirty Road leading to the North Fork Pass, with an overnight stay at the Tombstone Campground. This road trip would have been a significant part of the dream, if not my personal highlight.

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving 268 kilometers from Dawson City on the Klondike Highway and the Silver Trail to Mayo, also a landing point on the Stewart River for supply ships during the Gold Rush, and more so during the Silver Rush. It's still raining just outside Dawson, and the highway along the Klondike River still shows traces of the dredging on both sides of the road – the debris cones. There's not much else to see for a long time, but at least the rain stops. After 40 kilometers, I reach the turnoff for the Demster Highway. Naturally, I drive a good 5 kilometers on the highway, then turn around. The weather remains uncertain; perhaps the drive would have been possible after all. I'll never know, so I take advantage of my age and continue on the Klondike Highway. Along the way, there are several viewpoints overlooking the surrounding mountains, rivers, and lakes. After 150 kilometers, I stop at the quirky Moose Lodge for a late breakfast. After yesterday's schnitzel, it no longer surprises me that the lodge is run by a Swiss woman. After another 40 kilometers, with many roadworks along the way, I reach the bridge at Stewart Crossing and turn onto the Silver Trail.

The plan: A short detour on the Silver Trail towards Keno, then onward via the Klondike Highway to Carmarks. Stops at Pelly Crossing and the Five Finger Rapids.

The journey (1/2). It's 60 kilometers of gravel road from the campground to the two ghost towns of Elsa and Keno, former silver mines. I'm traveling alone in beautiful surroundings, passing many lakes. At Halfway Lakes, after about 30 kilometers, I turn around. The road becomes rougher, the potholes and rocks larger. And in my mind, that story about the flat tires. I don't even have a spare. RV rentals, you know. Back on the Silver Trail via Mayo, I start driving towards Carmarcks at the turnoff to the Klondike Highway near Stewart Crossing. The first stop is in vain; the Summit Roadhouse, built in 1914, is no longer there, surrounded only by forests of black trees. After three hours of solitary driving, I arrive at the viewpoint overlooking the next town, Pelly Crossing. A beautiful view over the village and the Pelly River. The village is located on Selkirk Land and is self-managed by the First Nations, with a gas station and general store. There's also a small cultural center about their history.

The plan: Continue on the Klondike Highway to Whitehorse and then on the Alaska Highway to Teslin. Lunch break in Whitehorse. Photo stops.

Route selection. I'm foregoing the originally planned route via the Campbell Highway and/or Canal Road. Of the 593 kilometers on this little-used route into the remote backcountry, 354 are gravel roads (from Ross River to Watson Lake). The downside is that I'll be driving the 437-kilometer stretch from Whitehorse to Watson Lake on the Klondike and Alaska Highways a second time (but in the opposite direction).

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving 361 kilometers from Carmacks to Teslin. The first 179 kilometers on the Klondike Highway to Whitehorse are new to me and quite appealing with their views of lakes and mountains. I drove the following 182 kilometers to Teslin on July 28, 2025, and much of it is still fresh in my memory. Generally, the focus today is on the landscapes, as there are hardly any towns or sights to see. For example, the Montague Roadhouse, a preserved unfinished log cabin, is a designated Historic Site. Or later, the Twin Lakes, perfect for idyllic photos. I've already driven for over an hour to get to the Braeburn Lodge for a coffee. But this lodge in the middle of nowhere has its own airport. I continue driving with the intention of stopping for lunch in Whitehorse next.

The plan: Continue driving on the Alaska Highway to Muncho Lake Provincial Park. Visit the Liard Hot Springs along the way and hike the trails at Muncho Lake.

The Implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 281 kilometers south from Watson Lake on the Alaska Highway to Muncho Lake Provincial Park. Shortly after Watson Lake, I definitively leave the Yukon region and drive through British Columbia to the final destination of the tour, the national parks in Alberta. For a long stretch, the drive is similar to yesterday's: lots of untouched nature, no towns, hardly any roadhouses, except for the lodges at Lower Post or Coal River, the latter with a gas station that looks like something out of a museum, and just right for quick stops to refill my coffee. The Alaska Highway then follows the Liard River for a considerable distance as it winds its way through the valleys. A short stop is worthwhile at Liard Canon with its rapids and a bay with a pool. I continue driving and soon arrive at Liards Hot Springs, a small provincial park with a campground and hot springs at the end of a 700-meter-long boardwalk through the marshes. A few visitors sit in the pool, which is between 33 and 36 degrees Celsius, chatting about the weather and tours. I soak my feet in it; it's incredibly refreshing. And the sulfur smell hangs heavy over the pool, as is always the case with hot springs.

The implementation (2/3). I had no cell service the entire drive. Even here at Liard Hot Springs and its campground, there's neither cell service nor Wi-Fi. Across the road at the private RV park, they sell Wi-Fi, but the router is down. I have plenty of time, so I order the soup of the day, a really good minestrone, and then continue on my way. Today's route is also bison country; several wild herds live along the Liard River. And I'm in luck: an oncoming RV flashes its hazard lights to warn me of danger or wildlife. Less than a kilometer further on, I see the herd of 60 animals. It's sensational how they slowly make their way past me towards the river. I'm reminded of similar images from an encounter with wild bison years ago in Yellowstone National Park. Deeply moved, I continue driving, and after half an hour, I reach Muncho Provincial Park and immediately find the first trail in the park. In the Salt Lake Viewing Area, a half-hour circular trail leads to viewpoints overlooking the Muncho River Canyon.

The plan : Continue driving on the Alaska Highway through the Northern Rocky Mountains to Fort Nelson. Visit the Fort Nelson Heritage Museum. Rest and recovery.

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving 255 kilometers from Muncho Lake on the Alaska Highway to Fort Nelson, a small town that grew from a trading post in 1805. First, I say goodbye to my slightly larger sibling in the campsite next to mine. Luxury camping is when the air conditioning hums audibly all night. The first 150 kilometers of the Alaska Highway through the North Rocky Mountains aren't exactly a scenic route, but for me, they're among the more beautiful stretches. Even a caribou poses for me. It's the landscape that fascinates once again. There are no towns, no trails to be found, only two roadhouses and a few bridges offer any variety. Two passes have to be crossed; the second, at Summit Lake, is the highest point on the Alaska Highway in Canada. The lake, at 1,290 meters above sea level, lies amidst striking mountains, so it's no wonder the campground is full. A trail to Summit Peak does lead from here, but the 5 to 9 hour hike with 500 to 800 meters of elevation gain is out of the question for me. After a break at the lake, I continue on. The route now descends steadily, and after one last viewpoint at altitude, the final 80 kilometers to Fort Nelson across the flatlands become rather uninteresting.

The plan: Continue on Alaska Highway to Dawson Creek and from Grande Prairie on Bighorn Highway (Alberta 40 South) to Grande Cache, a small town at 1,280 meters above sea level in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains.

The Implementation (1/2). Today I'm driving 440 kilometers from Fort St. John on the Alaska Highway and then on the Bighorn Highway to Grande Cache, passing the towns of Dawson Creek and Grande Prairie, which don't interest me much. After the first 110 kilometers along farms and endless wheat fields, I leave British Columbia and enter the province of Alberta. After 165 kilometers, I stop for fuel in Beaverlogde, a small town with a large beaver. I keep a good pace because I want to get as close as possible to Jasper National Park today. Therefore, I bypass Grande Prairie and don't stop again until 330 kilometers later at the Southview Campground. The small campground, which I had originally planned to stay overnight, is also beautifully situated overlooking the Smokey River Valley, but it's only for day use, so I'm the only one there. Since I'm making good time, I continue driving.

The plan: Continue on the Big Horn Highway and Yellowhead Highway to Jasper National Park. Visit Jasper Town and its Visitor Center. Ride the Jasper SkyTrain. Hike the trail around Lake Annette.

The ranger's tip. When I asked if I had three days available, the friendly and patient ranger recommended that the national park consist of five sections. He suggested today (1) the area around Jasper Town, tomorrow (2) the Maligne Valley, then (3) the Miette Hot Springs (the closest one from Hinton), and finally (4) the Icefields Parkway with its two waterfalls and the Athabasca Glacier, since the Parkway is the direct route to Banff. The Mount Cavell section (5) is still closed after last year's fires. I thanked him and told him that was exactly how I would plan my trip.

The Implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 237 kilometers from Grande Cache on the Big Horn Highway to Hinton, and after entering Jasper National Park, I'll take the Yellowhead Highway to Jasper Town. After the first hour of driving, the first foothills of the Rocky Mountains come into view in Caribou Country. After two hours, I buy an annual Canada Parks pass at the Jasper National Park entrance, and another half hour later I'm already in Jasper Town, parking the Scout on Connaught Drive, the long main street lined with hotels, shops, and restaurants. The attractive town is busy today, but not overcrowded. I get a recommendation at the Visitor Center, then order a Sheppard's Pie at Papa George's and sit down on the Boulevard.

The Implementation (2/3). Refreshed, I get into the car and drive up a side road to the Jasper Sky Tram. The valley station isn't crowded, so I can catch the next gondola and reach the mountain station at 2,243 meters above sea level in eight minutes. There, the summit trail to Whistler's Mountain begins: a 200-meter climb over 1.4 kilometers, not far, but with some challenging, steep sections along the way. The 45-minute hike is well worth the effort. A sensational panoramic view of the entire national park, including Mount Robson, at 3,954 meters the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, which from a distance almost resembles the Matterhorn. The mountain ranges in all four directions are indescribably beautiful, majestic. I sit down on a rock and let the surroundings sink in for half an hour. In complete peace and quiet, because there aren't many of us up here. I begin my descent at a leisurely pace and after half an hour I'm queuing for the gondola ride down.

The plan: Drive to area (2) Maligne Valley. Boat trip on Maligne Lake. Viewpoints at Medecine Lake and Maligne Canyon. Overnight stay at the KOA Hinton, outside the national park.

The implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 183 kilometers, including 53 kilometers on the spur road from Whistler's Camp to Maligne Lake and 130 kilometers from Maligne Lake to the Koa Campground in Hinton, outside Jasper National Park. I booked the boat trip on Maligne Lake online for 10:45 and drive up the spur road through the Maligne Valley in good time, without stopping; I'll explore the valley on the way back. There's still time for a short walk along the lake before the Curly Phillips departs for the hour-and-a-half boat trip. An impressive boat trip through a mountain landscape, quite comparable to the fjords of Alaska or Norway. In the middle of the lake lies Spirit Island with a short trail and fantastic views of the far end of the lake.

The journey (2/3). Two final glances at the mystical Maligne Lake, bathed in backlighting, and after a brief stop on Spirit Island, the Curly Phillips takes us back to our starting point. It was a worthwhile excursion into a magnificent mountain and glacier landscape. According to customer reviews, the boat tour is among the three most beautiful in Canada. At the Lake House self-service restaurant, I order a rather good chili con carne and enjoy it on the sunny terrace with another view of the lake. Then I begin my return journey through the Maligne Valley along the Maligne River. In the middle of the valley, I pass Medicine Lake and stop at the viewpoints to capture the atmospheric shots.

The plan: Visit the hot springs. Trails: Sulhur Skyline and Source of the Springs. Short visits to Jasper House, Historic Site, and Boardwalk Hinton. Overnight stay again at the KOA Hinton, outside the national park.

The Implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 121 kilometers from Hinton to Miette Hot Springs in Jasper National Park and back to Hinton. Shortly after the park entrance, a side road branches off into the Fiddle River Valley, and after 17 kilometers of narrow, winding mountain road, I reach Miette Hot Springs. The hot springs don't interest me, though; I came here for the trails. I begin the Sulhur Skytrail, a mountain climb of 8 kilometers with an 800-meter elevation gain. My goal is to reach the halfway point at Shuey Pass. The mountain path is well-maintained and climbs steadily. There's no view at my destination, Shuey Pass, nor on the trail to the other side towards Mystery Lake; everything is hidden in the forest. I decide to continue climbing towards the Sulhur Range until I reach the tree line and a view of the valley. After half an hour and an estimated 500 meters of elevation gain, I find a spot overlooking the valley. For me, this is the ideal time to start the descent. I could manage the last 300 meters of elevation gain, but I don't have anything left to prove to myself. And so, after two and a quarter hours, I'm back at the starting point.

The implementation (2/3). On the hiking information board at the new hot springs, I see a photo of the view from the summit—beautiful, but I don't think I've missed anything. The second, short trail to the history and source of the hot springs also starts here. One kilometer above the new one are the ruins of the old hot springs (1938-1984), and another 200 meters further down the side valley, you can see the hole from which the warm water flows, accompanied by the usual light sulfurous steam. I go back to the parking lot, sit on the terrace of the Miette Cabins restaurant, and fortify myself with the soup of the day: turkey with rice in curry. Then I drive back down the mountain road to the Jasper House Historic Site.

The plan: Trail in Pyramid Bench above Jasper Town. Overnight stay in the national park's overflow area.

The Implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 106 kilometers from KOA Camp Hinton to Pyramid Bench above Jasper Town and on to Jasper Overflow Camp. For the last time, I'll drive the familiar 75 kilometers on the Yellowhead Highway from Hinton to Jasper Town early this morning. There's a café there, and I'll take a moment to pause in a small church. Afterward, it's 15 kilometers along Pyramid Road to Pyramid Lake. The popular spot by the lake above Jasper Town is quite busy, and all the parking spaces are taken. I drive halfway back and just manage to find a free space in Parking Lot P4. This is also the starting point of my planned hike.

The Implementation (2/3). The trails here have no names. From the labyrinth of countless hiking paths, I used Komoot to create an 8-kilometer loop that leads around Cottenwood Slough and past three of its many lakes. The mountain path initially climbs through the forest and across a large clearing to the viewpoint with the Red Chair and the view over Cottenwood Slough. Then the path winds its way up and down for a long stretch through dense forest. Every 100 meters, I give a mock cough, as I'm supposed to be noisy because of bears, according to the ranger's advice. I didn't buy bear spray; apparently, it's not very effective. But apart from warning whistles from birds, I neither hear nor see any wildlife. I don't encounter any other hikers either. After an hour's walk, I reach Riley Lake, the first lake along whose shore the path leads. I take a short break on a rock, listen to the silence, and gaze at the still water.

The plan: Continue along the Icefields Parkway through Jasper and the adjacent Banff National Park to Lake Louise, then take the Trans-Canada Highway to Banff. Brief visit to Banff and the Visitor Center. Overnight stay in Tunnel Village.

The implementation (1/4). Today I'm driving 332 kilometers from Jasper Snapping to Banff via the Icefields Parkway and Trans-Canada Highway. Since there's a lot to see along the way, I'm setting off early at 7:30 a.m., following the itinerary of the most important stops provided by the guidebook: after

- 30 kilometers to the Athabasca Falls

- 54 kilometers to the Sunwapta Falls

- 96 kilometers to the Tangle Falls

- 97 kilometers of the Glacier Skywalk

The parking lot at the latter is closed. Access is only granted to those who purchase a bus tour at the nearby Icefield Center.

The implementation (2/4). The guidebook further recommends: after 103 km, the Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Center. Other glaciers are already visible before this point, but none offer such a close approach as the Athabasca Glacier. Consequently, it's very crowded. On these last few kilometers of Jasper National Park, I'm interested in nature, not the tourist attractions. Bus after bus takes tourists from the center, admittedly a very attractive lodge, to the Athabasca Glacier or the Glacier Skywalk. I can easily do without both and only stretch my legs for a few minutes in the glacier's outflow. At kilometer 108, the Icefields Parkway seamlessly transitions into Banff National Park at Sunwapta Pass; the road layout and the surrounding mountain ranges are no less spectacular.

The Implementation (3/4). The Icefields Parkway in Banff National Park boasts, among other things, several beautifully situated mountain lakes. After 153 kilometers, the Crossing Resort, the only gas station on the route, invites a break. I prefer to continue driving; too many others want the same thing and stop for a break after 173 kilometers at Waterfowl Lake. After 190 kilometers, a half-hour trail leads to the viewpoint overlooking Peyto Lake. The large parking lot is full, so I park, like others, on the side of the access road. Not much further, after 193 kilometers, I reach Bow Lake with the rather impressive Bow Lake Lodge.

The plan: In the morning, hike the Johnston Canyon Trail to the Lower and Upper Falls. In the afternoon, hike the lake trail to Stewart Canyon on Lake Minnewanka. Return via Two Lakes to the Buffalo Museum and a walk in Banff City.

The Implementation (1/3). Today I'm driving 115 kilometers to the chosen hikes. I'm following the recommendations from the Visitor Center, which I received from the young ranger yesterday. Because of the expected crowds, I'm supposed to arrive early. The first 55 kilometers to Johnston Canyon, via the highway towards Lake Louise and the access road on the Bow Valley Parkway, take me a good hour. I arrive at the parking lot at nine o'clock, and it's already almost full. The 5.5-kilometer round-trip trail is well-maintained and follows Johnston Canyon, partly along bridge paths. Two hours isn't enough for the hike and photo stops, as many tourists are already on their way to the waterfalls, and some are already heading back. This is the first time I've had to stand in line for a photo, because the waterfalls can only be viewed from narrow walkways. So everyone lines up to get their picture.